Gaeng Hang Lay (Northern Curry)

I’ve been enjoying exploring some of Thailand’s lesser known curries recently. Green and red are so popular here in the UK, with Massaman, Penang and Jungle following behind somewhere. Along with the recipes I’ve posted recently for Gaeng Kari (Indian style curry) and Khao Soi (Burmese style curried noodles) I feel there are still some amazing Thai curries that need better representation here in the UK, Gaeng Hanglay is one of them. It’s a dish from the north of Thailand, and like another northern curry, Gaeng Pha (jungle curry) it doesn’t use coconut milk. It shares ingredients from both Burmese and Indian cuisines. As there are a few stages to making this curry, it does take a bit of time, around 3 hours altogether, but it is definitely worth it.


This recipe gives three big portions or four small ones:


For the hang lay spice mix:

Toast the following spices in a dry frying pan until starting to brown (but not burn!) then grind in a pestle and mortar:

• a heaped teaspoon of Szechwan peppercorns


• 6 dried red chillies


• a heaped tablespoon of coriander seeds


• a heaped teaspoon of cumin seeds


• ½ nutmeg, crumbled


• a heaped tablespoon of powdered turmeric

For the pickled garlic use:

• a bulb of garlic, peeled


• a pinch of sugar


• a pinch of salt


• a big splash of white wine/ rice wine vinegar


• a splash of water.

Mix everything and leave to pickle for at least an hour. This will keep for a week at least.


For the curry paste:

Pound up all these ingredients in a pestle and mortar, start with the tougher ingredients and add the spice powder and shrimp paste (if using last). It’ll take a while but pestle and mortar does give the best results:

• a tablespoon of your hang lay spice mix


• 3 stalks of lemongrass, trimmed, outer layer peeled off and finely chopped


• ½ red onion, roughly chopped


• 5 cloves garlic, roughly chopped


• a finger sized piece of galangal, roughly chopped


• a few pieces of fresh turmeric, roughly chopped (use a tablespoonful of dried if you can’t get fresh)


• a heaped teaspoon of shrimp paste (leave out if you don’t have access to an Asian supermarket.

For the curry use:

• 300g of pork, cubed. I used pork loin but left the fat on


• about 20 Thai shallots/ regular shallots are fine too, peeled but left whole


• a handful of peanuts


• a large piece of ginger, peeled and cut into strands


• your pickled garlic + a big splash of the pickling liquid


• the rest of your hang lay spice mix


• a big splash of dark soy sauce


• a big splash of fish sauce


• a big splash of tamarind juice (use lime if you can’t get tamarind)


• water  as needed


• a big pinch of sugar


• a small splash of vegetable oil for frying

In a bowl, start by mixing together the meat, curry paste and dark soy sauce, letting it marinate for an hour or more, if you have time.

In the meantime, toast the peanuts in a dry frying pan, when they have brown edges, turn them out and leave for later.

When the meat has marinaded, heat the oil in a wok or heavy frying pan. When it’s hot, add in the meat and fry to seal the meat and render out some of the fat. After 5 minutes of cooking, add in the shallots and fry for another few minutes before adding in the pickled garlic and juice, peanuts and ginger. Give everything a good stir then add in the rest of the spice mix. Stir again before adding the fish sauce, tamarind and the sugar. Slowly add in water until you can only just see the tops of the ingredients poking out before leaving the curry to simmer for at least an hour. From time to time, give the curry a stir and check the water level; adding more if needed. The pork should be soft and the sauce shouldn’t be too thin when it’s ready.

Serve with fluffy or sticky rice.